Today I’m introducing something new, something I honestly didn’t know much about until recently, and something that’s surprisingly hard to find proper information on.
And the more I looked into it, the more questions came up and there I was sucked into a new rabbit hole.
When you see “Maki-e” on a dial, it immediately feels special, something deeply rooted in tradition and appreciated across many different crafts(from watches to fountain pens and so on). So when it comes to Kindai Maki-e, it naturally opens up a bigger question: is this still true to Japanese tradition, or is it more of a modern interpretation? I suppose, like everything else, even traditional crafts have to evolve over time.
What is Maki-e?
Traditional Maki-e is an old Japanese lacquer technique using urushi, and it’s about as far from mass production as you can get. Everything is done by hand. The artisan slowly builds the design layer by layer, applying lacquer and sprinkling gold powder to bring it to life.
Now to own such art usually comes with a price, a hefty one. As an example see below the Wancher Dragon – Red Urushi Maki-e watch.
The reason behind the cost is that, this isn’t a quick process. We’re talking months… sometimes even a year for a single piece.The tools and process demand extreme precision. The brushes used can have as few as three to five hairs, and the working window with lacquer can be just a few minutes depending on conditions. There’s no room for mistakes here, no erasing, no second chances. Every stroke is final, which makes the whole process as much about control and patience as it is about skill.
It’s fascinating how this art comes together layer by layer. We’re clearly in the realm of high-end, luxurious pieces but as mentioned, that level of craftsmanship naturally comes with a premium price tag. (Red Dragon cost 3000usd)
There’s honestly a lot to say about Maki-e—enough to fill a whole separate blog post. But since I want to keep the focus here on Kindai Maki-e, if you’d like to dive deeper into the traditional craft, there’s a great and detailed article here:
https://wancherwatch.com/blogs/watch-guide/what-is-a-maki-e
Now let’s see Kindai Maki-e
Kindai Maki-e is essentially a modern interpretation of the same idea. The base or at least in Wancher’s case is still real urushi, hand-lacquered dial (made in Echizen), which already carries a strong connection to traditional craftsmanship.
Urushi itself is not just any coating. It’s a natural lacquer made from the sap of the urushi tree, and working with it is a craft on its own. The sap is carefully harvested, refined, and then applied in thin layers, each one needing time to cure in controlled humidity. It’s a slow, delicate process that requires experience and patience, and it’s been part of Japanese craftsmanship for centuries.
Even without the Maki-e decoration, a proper urushi dial already brings depth, warmth, and a certain organic feel that’s hard to replicate with modern materials.
On top of this urushi base, the Maki-e layer is created using a high-quality silk-screen printing process. Instead of hand-drawing the entire design in lacquer, the artwork is carefully prepared and transferred onto the dial in layers, allowing for consistency while still building a sense of depth.
But it’s not just a flat print. What keeps it tied to traditional Maki-e is the finishing fine metal powder, usually gold is still applied to recreate that characteristic shimmer and texture.
From what I’ve learned, the process still has multiple steps. The design is first prepared for printing, then layered onto the urushi base in a controlled way to build up depth. After that, the metal powder is applied, and the whole piece requires careful handling to get the final look right. It’s not just a one-step print, it still takes precision, experience, and a good eye.
So I would say it sits somewhere in between, not fully traditional, but also not just a printed dial you’d find anywhere else. It’s still art, still needs time and creativity to create.
So in short the process becomes a sort of hybrid:
- urushi lacquer base (traditional)
- printed design (modern efficiency)
- metal powder finishing (traditional visual effect)
And honestly, this is the part I find interesting. Because traditional Maki-e is incredible but completely out of reach for most people. Not just because of price, but because of how long it takes and how limited it is.
Kindai Maki-e, on the other hand, feels like a way to bring that aesthetic into something more wearable and accessible without completely losing the idea behind it. It opens the door for more people to actually experience this kind of art, not in a display case, but on the wrist, in everyday life. And I think that’s what makes it interesting. It turns something that was once very exclusive into something you can live with and enjoy daily.
And that’s what made me curious about this watch in the first place.
Let’s talk about the watch!
I’ll start with the dial, because that’s really the main selling point of this model, the art itself. It’s the part that immediately draws you in and sets the tone for the entire watch. This isn’t just a background element or something that supports the design, the dial is the design. Everything else feels built around it. With watches like this, it’s not the specifications that do the talking, but the visual beauty, the sense of tradition, and the idea of wearing something artistic and timeless on your wrist every day.
The moment you look at it, your attention goes straight to the artwork, and that’s where the character of this piece really comes through.
It takes inspiration from Hokusai (1760–1849), a master of Japanese ukiyo-e printmaking, and more specifically one of the most iconic works from his, the famous Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji series.
It’s the piece often referred to as Akafuji (Red Fuji) in Japan, a scene where Mount Fuji is shown in warm red tones under clear skies, capturing a very specific moment of light and atmosphere. It’s a simple composition, but incredibly powerful, and over time it became one of the defining images not just of Hokusai’s work, but of Japanese art as a whole.
What also makes this series important is how Hokusai approached it. He helped push landscape into the spotlight, and his use of imported pigments like Prussian blue was quite groundbreaking at the time.
Bringing something like this onto a watch dial is not an easy task, but I think Wancher did a really good job here. The design is instantly recognisable, even at a small scale, and it translates surprisingly well onto the dial. It still carries that calm, balanced feel of the original artwork, while working within the limitations of the format. It still feels like a proper nod to the original piece.
On the early versions, you’ll notice the date window slightly breaks up the overall look, but the guys at Wancher mentioned that later models will drop it which should make the dial feel much cleaner and more balanced. If you’ve read my reviews, you’ll know I’m usually not a fan of date windows but on this one, especially on the black model, I don’t really mind it. I can’t fully explain why, but somehow it just works for me.
That said, a black date disc with gold numerals could actually work quite nicely and blend in much better with the overall design.
The watch is powered by the Miyota 9015, a reliable automatic movement beating at 28,800 bph. It features 24 jewels, offers a 42-hour power reserve, and delivers an accuracy of around -10 to +15 seconds per day. An alternative could be the Miyota 9039, which removes the date function—otherwise, the two movements are quite similar.
It offers 50m of water resistance, which is pretty much the standard for this type of watch, but I’d personally appreciate seeing 100m. That would give a bit more peace of mind for everyday use not for heavy water activities, but just for those situations where you don’t want to think twice about it. The case itself is marked 100m water resistance, but the watch is officially rated for 50m.
The case measures 42mm in diameter, 50mm lug-to-lug, and 12mm thick, so it definitely leans toward the larger side, not exactly what you’d call a dress watch.
But then again, that size makes sense here. It gives the dial enough space to really breathe and lets you properly enjoy the artwork. On a smaller watch, I feel like it would end up looking a bit too compressed. On my 17cm wrist, though, it still wears comfortably.
Final thoughts
This is one of those watches that’s really all about the dial and I mean that in a good way.
It’s not trying to compete on specs or be the most versatile piece in a collection. Instead, it focuses on bringing something different to the table: a piece of Japanese-inspired art that you can actually wear and enjoy on a daily basis.
The use of Kindai Maki-e might not be “pure” in the traditional sense, but I don’t see that as a negative. If anything, it feels like a smart and honest approach. It keeps the spirit of the craft alive while making it more accessible, basically bringing this kind of art within reach for anyone who loves watches and art. And that is something I can get behind and really appreciate.
In a way, this approach allows more people to connect with something that was once reserved for a very small group. It brings beautifully crafted ideas into a price range where more enthusiasts can actually enjoy them.
That said, traditional Maki-e and true handcrafted pieces will always hold their place. That level of craftsmanship, time and individuality is something that can’t really be replaced and honestly shouldn’t be. It will always be appreciated, and always desired.
But pieces like this sit somewhere in between. They don’t try to replace tradition, but rather reinterpret it and in doing so, make it accessible to more of us. So just sit back, take a moment, and lose yourself in the dial. After all it is art on your wrist.
Specification:
- Movement: Miyota 9015 — 24 jewels, 28,800 bph, hacking, hand-winding, 42-hour power reserve
- Case: 316L stainless steel, brushed and polished finishing
- Size: 42mm, 50mm lug to lug and 11mm thickness, 56gramm
- Dial: Hand-lacquered urushi (Echizen) with Kindai Maki-e Aka Fuji design — made in Ishikawa, Japan
- Crystal: Domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating
- Water resistance: 50m
- Strap: 20mm genuine calfskin leather
Link to the watch:
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