I’ve always had a soft spot for watches that feel like proper tools, the kind you can actually wear anywhere without worrying too much. The Vanguard AG-10 fits right into that category.

Gruppo Gamma started back in 2013 as an independent brand with a clear purpose: to create vintage-inspired tool watches that are legible, reliable, and built for everyday wear.

The name itself comes from Gruppo Gamma, the elite Italian naval diver unit first deployed in 1940. These divers were using modified pocket watches strapped to their wrists during missions, a real-world origin story that’s still very much alive in the design language of today’s Gruppo Gamma pieces.

The AG-10

The AG-10 arrives in a black canvas pouch, along with a 4-in-1 multi-purpose tool (screwdrivers, pin tool, and fork) and an optional extra leather strap which is possible to get in a promotional bundle. It’s a small touch, but it really shows the brand understands enthusiasts, because let’s be honest, most of us change straps more often than we should.

When I opened the pouch the first thing that made me feel ‘wow’ was the dial. This is where Gruppo Gamma really went bold. The AG-10 features a forged carbon dial infused with luminous pigment  and yes, the dial material itself glows.

The dial uses a sandwich construction, with cutouts for the numerals and markers revealing a luminous layer underneath. The forged carbon on top adds a modern, technical texture and when the lights go out, the whole thing lights up like a Christmas tree.

You don’t realize you need this until you see it and once you do, it’s impossible not to love.
The lume is insane, and the red seconds hand and the red Vanguard name gives a subtle but perfect contrast to the whole package.

On the top sits a box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. It has a subtle distortion from certain angles. It is just enough to give off a nice vintage charm without hurting legibility.

At 3 o’clock you’ll find the crown guard with a locking lever. It’s not just for the looks it actually keeps the crown protected. The crown itself is grippy and smooth to operate, which is something I always appreciate in a daily wearer.

Flip the watch over, and you’ll find a solid screw-in caseback with clean, no-nonsense engravings.

Water resistance is rated at 100 meters (10 ATM), which means you can wear it anywhere from washing hands, swimming, or chasing after a toddler who’s heading straight for a puddle. (Been there.) For a watch positioned as a tool watch and featuring such a robust crown guard, I feel it should offer at least 2-300 meters of water resistance. Not that I need it or I dive that deep, but it would go better with the whole concept.

The cushion-shaped case is made from 316L stainless steel and has a completely uniform, brushed finish. No polished surfaces here, just a raw, functional look that fits the whole “tool watch” concept perfectly.

It measures 42mm across, with a lug-to-lug of 49.5mm and 12.6mm thickness (including the crystal). On paper, those numbers might sound a bit large, but on the wrist, it wears smaller and very comfortably. For my 17cm wrist, it feels surprisingly balanced and doesn’t overwhelm at all.

So on n the wrist, the Vanguard feels solid, well-balanced, and genuinely comfortable. The stainless-steel bracelet tapers nicely, and it just sits right. It does not even the wheel but does a good job to hold the watch in its place.

The leather strap is great. It is thick, comfy, and finished with a signed buckle. Of course, it all comes down to personal taste, whether you’re into metal or leather. To be honest I’m not much of a bracelet guy myself.

Powering the AG-10 is the Miyota 9039, an automatic movement running at 28,800 bph, with a 42-hour power reserve. It’s hackable, hand-windable, and runs within -10 to +30 seconds a day. It’s part of Miyota’s premium line, allowing the watch to stay on the slimmer end and affordable while remaining a reliable workhorse. A popular and great choice among many microbrands.

This is a watch that invites you to take it out into the world, not keep it on a pillow in the box. It’s the kind of piece you can wear while doing yard work, taking the baby for a walk, or just enjoying a quiet morning coffee.

Final thoughts

The Gruppo Gamma Vanguard AG-10 isn’t trying to be delicate or dressy. It’s a watch with a clear purpose: to be worn, used, and enjoyed. Its combination of raw steel, luminous forged carbon, and that signature locking crown creates something unique in a sea of derivative tool watches.

Gruppo Gamma has managed to channel vintage inspiration into a thoroughly modern package — one that feels authentic, rugged, and refreshingly different. The overall build quality is excellent, the lume is out of this world, and the design manages to stand out without trying too hard.

If I have one small criticism, it’s the water resistance as mentioned earlier.

That said, this doesn’t take away from how much I’ve enjoyed wearing it. On the wrist, it feels solid, confident, and genuinely comfortable. The forged carbon dial alone is enough to make you smile every time you catch it glowing in low light.

And when the lights go out?
It doesn’t just glow — it shines.

Some additional notes

Many people like to compare Gruppo Gamma to Panerai, and yes, the influence is there, especially with the cushion case and the crown guard. But it’s worth remembering that both brands draw inspiration from the same source: the classic Italian military design language of the mid-20th century. The AG-10 feels like a modern continuation of that heritage rather than an homage. Its proportions, forged carbon dial, and incredible lume give it a completely different personality, a watch that confidently stands on its own.

Specifications:

• Case: 316L stainless steel, brushed
• Diameter: 42mm | Lug-to-lug: 49.5mm | Height: 12.6mm
• Crystal: Box-shaped sapphire, anti-reflective
• Crown: Push-pull with locking lever
• Water Resistance: 100m / 330ft
• Movement: Miyota 9039 automatic (42h power reserve)
• Dial: Forged carbon infused with luminous pigment, sandwich construction
• Lume: Swiss Super-LumiNova “Old Radium”
• Bracelet: stainless steel
• Price: 799 USD

Link to the watch:

Vanguard