The Start of Something New: My First Experience with a GMT function and French Watchmaking

What made me choose this one over a diver? Well, for quite some time, I felt like there was something missing in my collection because I didn’t own a true GMT watch. I do have a few quartz pieces that can track multiple time zones, but I always dreamed of experiencing the mechanical charm of an automatic GMT. It felt like a milestone I hadn’t reached yet.

At the same time, I’d been interested in adding a French watch to my collection. I spent a lot of time browsing through different brands and models, hoping to find one over the years(well, that I can afford) that really spoke to me, but nothing ever felt quite right, until now.

Meet the Carl-Avi-01

I first came across the brand on Instagram. A few of their posts caught my attention, and I decided to dig a little deeper. That’s when I discovered the person behind it all: Alexandre Voirin, a well-known French designer(more on the brand in Meet the brands section) who had spent nearly a decade working with Longines. Learning about his background instantly made me more curious about their timepieces.

As I explored their collection, the Aviation line immediately stood out to me. There was something about its design and character(not to mention the GMT function) that really spoke to me, and from that moment I knew I had to get one.

The Aviation 01 is a bold yet balanced watch. Its 40mm case (41mm with bezel) and 49.7mm lug-to-lug make it versatile enough for most wrists, while its 13.65mm thickness gives it some presence without feeling overly chunky. The case is made of 316L steel with black PVD treatment, which gives it a stealthy and modern look.

The bi-directional bezel shares the same PVD-treated steel and is filled with Swiss Super-LumiNova®, ensuring excellent legibility even in low light. The sapphire crystal is domed and treated with anti-reflective coating on the underside, which helps show off the stunning dial. Despite the AR coating not being the strongest, I’m not sure how Carlingue managed it but the watch remains impressively legible. I never had any trouble reading the time.

The dial is where the watch really comes alive. It features a black and green gradient with a circular satin finish, giving it depth and character. The painted Arabic numerals and indexes are coated in Super-LumiNova®, which glows beautifully in the dark. The sandblasted, rhodium-plated hands also have Super-LumiNova®, making the watch easy to read in any lighting condition. It is really beautiful and well made. I love how the sunlight plays with the dial and how the green and black colors are changing.

With 100m water resistance and screwed-down crown, this watch is ready for daily life. Whether you’re traveling, working, catching a tropical storm or heading out on the weekend, the Carlingue Aviation 01 feels rugged enough to handle it all while still looking refined.

The exhibition case back, secured with screws, features scratch-resistant sapphire that gives you a clear view of the movement inside.

The movement and the strap

At the heart of this watch is the premium Miyota 9075, a modern automatic movement that has quickly become a benchmark for affordable true GMTs. This flyer-style GMT caliber operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz) and offers a 42-hour power reserve. Unlike caller-style GMTs, the 9075 features an independently adjustable local hour hand that can jump forward or backward in precise one-hour increments without stopping the movement, while the 24-hour GMT hand remains fixed to track home time or a second time zone.

Each adjustment of the local hour hand is accompanied by a crisp, audible click, which is a pleasure to the ear. The 9075’s architecture and robust performance have made it an increasingly popular choice not only for microbrands but also for more expensive watchmakers seeking a cost-effective alternative to Swiss GMT movements without compromising functionality or reliability, not to mention it helps to keep the watch’s profile thinner with its 4.92mm thickness.

The movement also features an elegant Côtes de Genève finish, adding a touch of refinement to the whole package. The Aviation GMT is further personalized with a custom rotor, engraved or printed with the brand name and model, giving it a distinctive and thoughtful detail.

The watch comes on a green nylon strap with leather lining, and with quick release function, which makes it easy to swap out for other styles. The 20mm lug width means strap options are endless. The buckle, like the case, is 316L steel with black PVD, completing the cohesive design.

The strap is comfortable and keeps the watch securely. It is on the stiffer side, so it takes a little time to fully break in and mold to your wrist.

Final thoughts

The Carlingue Aviation Watch 01 Black & Green is more than just another addition to my collection, it represents a series of milestones for me. It’s my first GMT watch, giving me the chance to experience the functionality and charm of a true traveler’s complication for the first time. It’s also my first French watch, connecting me to a design tradition I’ve admired from afar but hadn’t yet had the chance to explore. I’m already using it to track my wife’s family’s timezone in Vietnam. Such a cool feature.

Every detail of this watch reflects careful planning and expertise. From the gradient black and green dial and its luminous numerals to the Miyota 9075 GMT movement with its precise, audible clicks. It’s clear that this is a watch made by someone who truly understand what collectors and enthusiasts value. It won’t change the industry or reinvent the wheel, yet everything it does, it does exceptionally well. I genuinely love it!

For anyone looking for a GMT that stands out without straying into overly familiar designs, or for collectors curious about what a modern French microbrand can offer, the Carlingue Aviation 01 is a watch worth serious consideration. It’s practical, comfortable, and unique, but it also tells a story—and for me, that story makes it far more than just a tool or a piece of jewelry. It’s a personal milestone, a small celebration of discovery, and a reminder of why I love collecting watches in the first place.

Specifications:

• Case diameter: 40.00mm (41.00mm with rotating bezel)
• Lug to lug height: 49.70mm
• Thickness: 13.65mm
• Lug to lug : 20.00mm
• Case material: 316L steel with black PVD treatment
• Crown: screwed in 316L steel with black PVD treatment
• Bezel: bi-directional rotating 316L steel with black PVD treatment and Swiss Super-LumiNova®
• Crystal: domed in scratch-resistant sapphire with anti-reflective coating on the underside
• Hands: sandblasted rhodium-plated and Swiss Super-LumiNova®
• Dial: black and green gradient, circular satin finish, painted Arabic numerals and indexes with Swiss Super-LumiNova®
• Back: clipped and screwed in 316L steel with black PVD treatment and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal
• Strap: interchangeable in green nylon and leather lining
• Buckle: 316L steel with black PVD treatment
• Movement: Miyota 9075, mechanical self-winding oscillating at 28,800 vibrations per hour (hours, minutes, seconds, date and 24-hour hand)
• Power reserve: 42 hours
• Water resistance: 100m (10ATM)

Website:

https://carlingue-watches.com/en/categorie-produit/watches/aviation-en